Quick answer Discharge the capacitor, set the multimeter to capacitance (µF), touch the probes to the terminals, and compare the reading to the rating printed on the case. A reading more than 10% below the rating means replace it.

What a capacitor does

A capacitor stores electrical energy and releases it in a burst. In an appliance it has one of two jobs:

  • Start capacitor: gives the motor a burst of torque to get turning. If it fails, the motor hums but does not start.
  • Run capacitor: keeps the motor running smoothly and efficiently. If it fails, the motor runs hot, slow, or not at all.

In a refrigerator, a failed start capacitor or relay is behind a large share of “fridge won’t start” and “fridge clicks but won’t run” complaints. In a washer, dryer or air conditioner, the same part causes the same symptom. It is a $10–$30 part and one of the highest-value DIY repairs there is.

Discharge it first — this is not optional

A capacitor can hold a dangerous charge long after the appliance is unplugged. Discharge it before you touch the terminals.

  1. Unplug the appliance at the wall. Do not rely on a switch.
  2. Wait a few minutes for the internal circuits to bleed down.
  3. Hold an insulated screwdriver by the handle and bridge the two terminals of the capacitor. You may see a small spark — that is the stored charge discharging.
  4. Repeat across the terminals once more to be sure.
Never touch capacitor terminals with bare hands Even a small appliance capacitor can deliver a painful and potentially dangerous shock. Always discharge it with an insulated tool, and keep one hand behind your back while working.

The test

  1. Set the multimeter to the capacitance setting, marked with the µF symbol. If your meter does not have one, use the resistance (Ω) setting instead.
  2. Touch the black probe to one terminal and the red probe to the other. Polarity does not matter for a non-polarised capacitor.
  3. Hold the probes steady and wait for the reading to settle — a few seconds.
  4. Note the reading and compare it to the value printed on the capacitor case (for example, 25 µF).
  5. If using the resistance setting instead: the reading should climb toward infinity as the capacitor charges. A reading that stays at zero means a short; one that stays at infinity means an open circuit. Either way, replace it.
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Reading the result

Reading vs ratingMeaningAction
Within 10%HealthyReuse it
10–20% lowWeakeningReplace it — it will fail soon
More than 20% lowFailedReplace it
Zero / no readingOpen or shortedReplace it
Bulged or leaking caseFailedReplace it, regardless of reading
How to interpret a capacitor reading

A capacitor can also fail visually. Look for a bulged top, a leaking or crusty residue, or a burnt smell. Any of those means replace it even if the meter reads correctly.

The appliance link

This is where most generic electronics guides stop, and where the appliance context matters. The test is the same, but the symptom it explains is specific:

ApplianceSymptom of a bad capacitorPart
RefrigeratorHums or clicks, compressor will not startStart capacitor / relay
Washing machineDrum will not spin, motor humsRun capacitor
DryerDrum will not turn, motor buzzesStart capacitor
Air conditionerFan or compressor will not startRun / start capacitor
Appliance symptoms caused by a failed capacitor
Test the relay too On a refrigerator, the start capacitor and the start relay work together. If the capacitor tests fine but the fridge still will not start, test the relay next — it is the more common failure of the two.

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Four capacitor-testing mistakes

  1. Not discharging it. A capacitor holds a charge after the appliance is unplugged. Always discharge it with an insulated screwdriver before touching the terminals.
  2. Testing it in circuit. The meter can find a path around the capacitor through the rest of the circuit, giving a false reading. Remove it first.
  3. Ignoring a bulged case. A capacitor can read correctly and still be failing. A bulged top or leaking residue means replace it regardless.
  4. Replacing the capacitor but not the relay. On a refrigerator, the two work together. If one has failed, check the other.

Reading the capacitor label

The rating you compare against is printed on the case. Here is how to read it:

MarkingMeaning
µF or MFDCapacitance in microfarads — the value you test against
VAC or VVoltage rating — must be equal or higher on the replacement
±%Tolerance — the acceptable range around the rating
Two terminalsNon-polarised — polarity does not matter
Three terminalsOften a dual run capacitor — test each pair
How to read a capacitor label

A dual run capacitor has three terminals and two capacitance values printed on it. Test each pair of terminals and compare to the matching value. If either is low, replace the whole capacitor.

The relay is the more common failure On a refrigerator, the start relay fails more often than the capacitor. If the capacitor tests fine and the fridge still will not start, test the relay next — it is a $10–$30 part and a common cause of a fridge that clicks but will not run.

Testing a capacitor, step by step

A capacitor test takes two minutes once the capacitor is out of the circuit. The order matters.

  1. Unplug the appliance and wait five minutes.
  2. Discharge the capacitor by bridging the terminals with an insulated screwdriver.
  3. Set the meter to capacitance (µF) or resistance (Ω).
  4. Touch the probes to the terminals — polarity does not matter on a non-polarised capacitor.
  5. Read the value and compare it to the rating on the case.
  6. Watch the resistance mode if you are using it: the reading should climb toward infinity.

On the resistance setting, a good capacitor shows a rising reading as it charges, then settles at infinity. A capacitor that reads zero is shorted; one that reads infinity immediately is open. Both mean replace it.

What the readings mean

ReadingMeaningAction
Within ±10% of ratingGoodReuse it
10–20% lowWeakeningReplace it
More than 20% lowFailedReplace it
Zero resistanceShortedReplace it
Infinite resistanceOpenReplace it
Bulged or leaking caseFailedReplace regardless of reading
Interpreting capacitor test results

A capacitor can read correctly and still be failing under load. If the case is bulged, the top is domed, or there is residue around the terminals, replace it even if the meter says it is fine. Heat damage is not always visible in the reading.

Safety first

A capacitor holds a charge after the appliance is unplugged, and a large start capacitor can deliver a painful shock. Always discharge it before touching the terminals, and always use a meter rated for the voltage you are working on. If you are not confident, this is a job for a technician — the part is cheap, but the shock is not.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if a capacitor is bad?
Test it with a multimeter on the capacitance setting. If the reading is more than 10% below the rating printed on the case, or the case is bulged or leaking, replace it.
Can I test a capacitor without discharging it?
No. A capacitor holds a charge after the appliance is unplugged and can shock you. Always discharge it across the terminals with an insulated screwdriver before testing.
What multimeter setting tests a capacitor?
Use the capacitance setting, marked with the µF symbol. If your meter lacks it, use the resistance setting and watch for the reading to climb as the capacitor charges.
Why does my fridge hum but not start?
The most common cause is a failed start capacitor or start relay. The motor gets power but no starting torque, so it hums without turning. Test the capacitor first, then the relay.
Is it worth replacing a capacitor myself?
Yes. A capacitor is a $10–$30 part and the replacement is a straightforward DIY job once the appliance is unplugged and the capacitor is discharged. It is one of the best-value repairs there is.
Bottom line Discharge the capacitor, measure it on the µF setting, and replace it if the reading is more than 10% low or the case is bulged. It is a $20 part that explains a whole class of “hums but won’t start” failures.
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Apartment Air Fix Editorial Team

We test and write about the appliances that break in apartments. Our recommendations are based on hands-on use, manufacturer specs and verified owner reviews — never on commission rates.